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Ronda

Lars Haagen Petersen

Poento Nuevo flanked by Hotel Parador de Ronda at the back and Hotel Hotel Don Miguel in front - Christmas 2022

Ronda is one of the most interesting cities in Andalusia. It is located on a plateau in a mountainous area, surrounded by a deep gorge created by the river Guadalevín. The city has a long and dramatic history, marked by rebels, bandits, bullfighters and artists. If you want to experience an authentic and charming Andalusian city, Ronda is a good choice. Ronda is also known for its beautiful nature, its rich gastronomy and its cultural heritage.

Hotel Parador de Ronda in the upper left and Poente Nuevo in the middle  - Julen 2016

Puente Nuevo is the newest and largest of the three bridges that cross the 120 meter deep gorge created by the river Guadalevín and which divides the city of Ronda in two. The bridge was completed in 1793 and is an impressive sight vision. The architect was José Martin de Aldehuela and the main builder was Juan Antonio Díaz Machuca.

 

The road sign by the bridge - Christmas 2022


The bridge has a chamber above the central arch which has been used for various purposes, including as a prison. During the Spanish Civil War from 1936 to 1939, the chamber was allegedly used as a torture chamber for captured opponents, with some killed by being thrown from the windows to the cliffs below. The chamber can be reached through a square building which was once the guardhouse. It now contains an exhibition that describes the history of the bridge and construction. Puente Nuevo is one of the most important landmarks in Ronda and attracts many tourists, who will enjoy the view over the gorge and the city. The bridge connects the old part of the city - La Ciudad - with the new part - El Mercadillo.

The often slightly bumpy road on the way to see the bridge from below

To see the bridge from below, I would suggest one small trip to Pl. Ruedo Alameda, then turn right onto C. Prado Nuevo and further along Ruta desde las murallas de Ronda. The walk down there is approx. 2 km., which doesn't sound like much, but in strong heat, it can be just in over the edge to go back again, so wait if necessary. to the evening and always remember plenty of water.

Wanted

Ceramic tile mural depicting the city of Ronda

Ronda is a city that has inspired many writers and artists, such as Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, Rainer Maria Rilke and Juan Goytisolo. Ronda has approx. 34,000 inhabitants.

 

The Almeda Del Tajo Park - Christmas 2016

Parque Alameda del Tajo is a very beautiful park in Ronda that was designed in the early 19th century. The park located next to Plaza de Toros de Ronda and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced, has many interesting plants and trees.

Parken Almeda Del Tajo - De Britanglishman - Flickr, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8369079

Parque Alameda del Tajo- Christmas 2022

From the park there is also a fantastic view of the gorge and the surrounding areas valleys from the many balconies. Here you can enjoy nature, tranquility and beauty. The park also has a popular theater, the Vicente Espinel Theater, where there are often cultural events.

View from the cliff to Parque Alameda del Tajo - Christmas 2022



Parque Alameda del Tajo - Christmas 2022

Parque Alameda del Tajo is a popular spot among locals and tourists alike, and is a great place to visit at any time of the year, but especially in autumn, when the park is filled with color and leaves along its central tree-lined walkway.

 

Plaza de Toros - Christmas 2022

Ronda is one of the oldest cities in Spain and has a population of approx. 35,000 inhabitants. The city is located on a rocky plateau surrounded by river valleys and mountains, and is known for its dramatic and beautiful location and bullfighting. Bullfighting in Spain has its roots in ancient Rome and bullfighting as we know it today began in Ronda in the 18th century, when the first arena was built. Ronda is therefore considered as the cradle of modern bullfighting and has one of the oldest and most prestigious arenas in the country.

Bullfighting in Ronda usually takes place in September during the Feria de Pedro Romero, an annual festival which pays tribute to the famous bullfighter Pedro Romero, who was born in Ronda in 1754. The festival also includes the famous Corrida Goyesca, a bullfight where the bullfighters and the audience dress up in costumes from the 18th century, inspired by the painter Francisco de Goya.

Plaza de Toros - October 2016

If you want to see a bullfight in Ronda, you should be aware that it can be difficult to get tickets as it is a very popular and exclusive event. One can try to buy tickets online in advance from official dealers such as Servitoro or go directly to the bullring in Ronda and hope for some available seats. Prices vary depending on the space and the bullfighters, but they can be quite expensive.

A slightly older program for a bullfight in 1980

When the great American actor, director, screenwriter and producer, Orson Welles, died on October 10, 1985 in Hollywood of a heart attack, his ashes were buried in an old well on the property of Spanish bullfighter Antonio Ordóñez in Ronda. He was a lifelong admirer of Ordóñez and his family. His great passion for bullfighting and his great love for Ronda caused Orson Welles to have a path near the arena and canyon named after him.  

Paseo de Orson Welles - The sign near the bullring

Since Ernest Hemingway had the same passions, he, like Welles, had a path named after him. It can also be seen close to the bullring.

Paseo de E Hemmingway - The sign near the bullring

 

La Casa del Rey Moro - Christmas 2022

La Casa del Rey Moro is a monumental complex in Ronda with a long history. It begins in the 14th century and reaches up to the 20th century. La Casa del Rey Moro consists of three parts: a staircase down to the river from the Muslim era, a Neomudéjar style house and a garden designed by Jean Claude Nicolas Forestier, which was declared cultural heritage in 1943. The complex is located on the slope of the gorge in the northern part of the old Muslim city, just opposite the Puente Nuevo.

The "secret" staircase - La Casa del Rey Moro - Christmas 2016

The stairs down to the river are also an impressive example of hydraulic engineering, built in the 14th century during the reign of Abomelic, son of the Sultan of Fez and member of the Merinid dynasty. The mine utilized a natural crack in the rock and led down to the river Guadalevín through a tunnel. The mine was an important source of water supply and defense for the city, and played a key role in the conquest of the Nasrid kingdom.


La Casa del Rey Moro - Trappen til floden - Julen 2016
 
The staircase leading down to the Río Guadalevín was built to protect the water supply for the people and defenders of Ronda. The staircase was carved into the rock of the El Tajo Gorge and consists of 231 steps. To enter the mine, one must first go through the palace gardens. The water was hauled up by people (slaves) forming a chain to manually pass the full containers of water to the top.

The river below the "secret" staircase - La Casa del Rey Moro - Christmas 2016

View of the Arabian Baths - Baños Árabes - Christmas 2016

Baños Árabes are some of the best preserved Arab baths in Spain. They were built in the 13th or 14th century under Muslim rule and show its sophisticated hygiene and architecture from that time. They are located in the San Miguel neighborhood, a three-minute walk from Puente Viejo.

Baños Árabes - Christmas 2016

Baños Árabes is inspired by the Roman model, but uses steam instead of warm water to cleanse the body. The Muslim inhabitants of Ronda did not use them only to bathe, but also to perform the ritual purifications required of their religion. Bañ os Árabes consists of three rooms: the cold room, the warm room and the warm room connected by vaulted passages.

Baños Árabes also has an impressive system of vaults with star holes that lets the light in and creates a magical atmosphere. In addition, they have a large furnace that heated the water and air, and a cistern that collected rainwater. Ban os Árabes is a testimony to the cultural heritage and historical importance of Ronda as one of the last bastions of Muslim Spain.

Baños Árabes can be visited from Monday to Sunday from 10 to 19. The price is 3.50 EUR for adults and EUR 1.75 for children and pensioners.

Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor - Christmas 2016

Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor is one of the most impressive churches in Ronda. It became built on the site where the former mosque stood. The mosque was a building from the 13th century, of which remains can still be seen.

The church was elevated to the category of collegiate church by King Ferdinand the Catholic, and it took more than two centuries to build. The church reflects different architectural styles. The first part that corresponds to the feet of the temple, is Gothic, and consists of three naves separated by pointed arches resting on bundled columns. The other part corresponding to the head of the church is mannerist and was built after an earthquake in 1580. This part has one more monumental character and a greater height than the Gothic part.

Miniature of Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor - Christmas 2022

The church also has a beautiful facade next to the tower, where there is situated, a magnificent brick building with Gothic tracery and pinnacles at the corners and a 16th-century dome. For this facade there was at the beginning of the 17th century added a triple gallery.

 Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor - Christmas 2022

Inside the church you can admire many works of art, such as a fresco of Christopher Columbus painted by one of Rondas famous painters, Jose de Ramos, or the statues (pasos) carried through the city during Semana Santa (Easter).

The Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor can be visited from Monday to Sunday from 10 to 18. The price is 4 euros for tourists and free for residents of Ronda (Information from 2022).

Hotel Parador de Ronda or Hotel Don Miguel - what to choose?

There are many hotels in Ronda, but Hotel Parador and Hotel Don Miguel are definitely among the best located in the city.

Hotel Parador is a four-star hotel in Ronda, located in the former town hall next to the iconic bridge "Puente Nuevo" and has a spectacular view of the Tajo Gorge. The hotel has 78 rooms, all with private balconies, many with views of the surrounding mountains. The hotel has a pool and, not least, a secure underground car park available for a daily fee.

Hotel Don Miguel is also a four-star hotel, which is also right next door a side of the famous Puente Nuevo, but located on the other side of the bridge. The hotel has a café with a terrace where you can enjoy the spectacular view, as well as a restaurant where you can taste the local gastronomy. Some of the many rooms have a balcony or terrace with a view of the city or the gorge. Don Miguel has no pool or parking spaces. You have to find the one yourself.

If you ask me, I would say Hotel Parador is far more 4-star than Hotel Don Miguel - Everything is basically better at the Parador and you can go over and visit the outdoor restaurant at Hotel Don Miguelas as it is for everyone, but..... Parador is also significantly more expensive.

Catalonia Reina Victoria Wellness & Spa - Jerez 25, Ronda - Summer 2019

You can of course also choose to stay at the Catalonia Reina Victoria Wellness & Spa - The former Hotel Victoria, where in August 1936, in relation to the Spanish Civil War, a number of executions took place, when the nationalist forces under General Gonzalo Queipo de Llano captured the city from the Republicans. A group of republican prisoners, including some women and children, were taken to the Hotel Victoria, where they were tortured and executed by the Falangists.

El Morabito's outdoor restaurant - Christmas 2019

A good suggestion for an excellent restaurant with an eminent view is "El Morabito". The view doesn't get much better.

El Morabito Pl. de María Auxiliadora, 4, 29400 Ronda - Chrismas 2022

 

El Morabito Pl. de María Auxiliadora, 4, 29400 Ronda

 

El Morabito is located in Plaza de María Auxiliadora 4, close to Puente Viejo and Baños Árabes. The restaurant has a terrace with a fantastic view of the gorge and the city where you can enjoy Mediterranean cuisine, European cuisine and Spanish cuisine.

The restaurant offers tapas, salads, meat, fish and desserts at reasonable prices.

El Morabito is open from Monday to Sunday from 12 to 22 and can be contacted at the phone number +34 671 95 22 62 or via their website: Elmorabito

 

Parking:
When you arrive in most cities, parking your car is always a challenge, and this is also the case in Ronda. There are of course car parks, but we prefer to park approx. 1 km. from "Puente Nuevo" and then broadly walk along the gorge and enjoy the view of the mountains. That way you also get past the beautiful park, Alameda del Tajo and the bullring. The parking lot is called "Plaza Pruna".

 

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